Endless P Summer

Day 44     6/12/17     23 miles

Today was rather productive, especially considering we didn’t get out of town until quarter past ten. I had been lugging around my snowshoes for about 300 miles now and they had become a total nuisance. There was only about half a day when I actually used them and even that was overkill so I finally got a chance to mail them home today. This was no easy feat however, some old grouch at the post office was trying to make matters difficult. The woman at the counter was really nice but there was a particular crabby lady in the back that kept barking out orders at us from the other room. It took 3 trips to the PO, one pretty solid dumpster dive by me for some cardboard and a little bit of crafty ingenuity by Queen B to get our snowshoes packaged up and sent home. We celebrated our successful post office mission with ice cream sandwiches and then walked out of the town of Creede. This is a really cool old mining town and the Main Street leads right out of town through a giant canyon where the mine is. After leaving town the road ascends steeply through the mine and eventually picks up a trail that brought us back to the CDT after 10 miles. We walked quickly up this road and about halfway up saw a great big bull moose just chilling in the grass watching us. Once we got back onto the official route it was familiar territory. The CDT coincides with the Colorado Trail for the next few hundred miles and Queen B and I both hiked the CT last August. For the next 4 miles we were up around 12,000 feet contouring around huge bowls and postholing in deep snow. QB said this is her favorite place in the world, personally though I’m not too crazy about post holing through the snow for miles, no matter how spectacular the views are. Once we got up and over San Luis Pass we dropped down through a valley for about 10 miles before finding a place to camp in La Garita CG. I loved the CT and it’s fun to remember my time here last year and to see the trail going the opposite direction. In the valley this evening I saw a beaver, another great big moose, a white tailed deer and about a dozen elk. Walking out of Creede the old mineQB’s favorite place in the worldA great big moose

Day 45     6/13     27 miles

Crush City today! For real, we really knocked it out of the park. Today was a primo day for banging out some serious miles. The original plan was to push for a huge day, do the same thing tomorrow then hopefully get to Monarch Pass early enough on Thursday with enough time to hitchhike a couple hundred miles north to Denver. My friends Boone and Katie are getting married in Illinois this weekend and Queen B and I would like to be in attendance. We were destroying miles all morning and had close to 20 by the time we stopped for lunch. Shortly afterwards we ran into a southbounding Colorado Trail hiker who gave us a report of pretty lousy trail conditions ahead. I have no idea how accurate this report was and if we gave it hell I’m sure we could have still got to Monarch Pass by Thursday but chose to let fate have its say. There was a road crossing about 6 miles ahead and we decided to put our thumbs out for exactly one hour. If we didn’t get picked up in an hour we’d carry on hiking. As luck would have it, 45 minutes into the hour, the 8th car that passed us scooped us up. Chad was driving a huge pickup towing an even bigger trailer full of scrap metal. As a former scrap metal collector myself, I knew this was a good omen. He fed us a still warm McDonald’s double cheeseburger and drove us 40 miles to Sawatch, CO. We were quickly in and out of a gas station for drinks, and seconds later got picked up by a car heading our way. Mary was driving a full size suburban Chevrolet dragging a pop-up trailer and packed with 3 kids, 2 dogs and a few bikes. I was shocked when she stopped for us but it was a great hitch. The whole family was really nice and Mary drove us 3 hours to Colorado Springs where they were meeting her daughter who’s in the army there and camping for the weekend. On request Speed drove down to CO Springs to grab us, then he and his wife Theresa put us up in their home in Denver. Things really work out nicely sometimes. I just ate a ton of pizza and I’m about to crash out after an awesome long day of walking and traveling. Coachetopa creek crossing, arguably the coldest water of all time. My legs were numb to my thighs for 20 minutes. Miles to go before I sleep

Day 46     6/14     0 miles

Today I took my first official zero of the CDT. In thru hiking terminology a ‘zero’ is simply a day with no trail miles hiked.  So nice to just relax for the day. Theresa cooked us breakfast and then I straight chilled this morning, even took a mid morning nap, a total rarity for me. Over the last few weeks I developed a gigantic tear in the seat of my shorts, I mean these things were threadbare and see-through and even the packing tape we got in Creede couldn’t stop the damage. A better hiker would have just sewed them with dental floss but I had planned on replacing them while in town.  Theresa, a seamstress, offered to fix them and had my shorts good as new in minutes. Early this afternoon, Big Cheese (who became so svelte hiking the PCT in ’15 that he now goes by just ‘Cheese’) came by and the 5 of us went out to lunch then explored the Berkeley neighborhood of Denver where Speed and T live. QB and I ran a couple of errands this afternoon and then this evening Cheese had a little impromptu cookout at his place in Arvada just north of Denver. Speed, T and some other hiking friends and Colorado Natives BK and Nomad showed up, it was great. All day everything  was so last minute and unplanned and all these people came out of the woodwork to help us out; driving us around, putting us up in their homes, feeding us, or just hanging out. So nice to get trail magic from friends. Speed was supposed to get back on trail today(he’s hiking a section of the CDT in southern Wyoming) but put it off until tomorrow just to help us out. Cheese lives on a little working farm complete with goats and chickens and the like. Plenty of room to camp so this is where I’m spending the night. At first I couldn’t tell if this was some kind of sidewalk art or a scaffolding collapse. Note the ‘Bad Neighbor’ sign next door. Slow car or fast house? The last time I saw Cheese grilling, he and Shadowhawk were flipping burgers in Warner Springs, CA for about 100 hungry hikers. Bullit the Goat eating grass

Day 47     6/15    0 miles

Yesterday Queen B and I booked our flights to Chicago for early this afternoon. The last thing I needed the first then this morning was an email from Spirit airlines saying that my flight was delayed 6 hours(this really wasn’t that big of a deal especially since we were able to use our time wisely). So I just walked a butt load of miles, strangers picked up two dirty smelly hikers and drove us for hours on end, friends carted us around, fed us and housed us but a major U.S. airline (albeit a budget airline), that we spent real money on, was the only entity we couldn’t count on. I believe in people and fate, airlines and huge companies on the other hand are just the worst. No big deal, we made the most of our day in Denver. Cheese had the day off so he was able to hang out and brought us all over town to take care of chores and eat food. We went to Tom’s Diner downtown and I demolished a delicious Denver Omelette(I think everywhere else it’s just called a Western Omelette, at least in New England). While exploring the city we shopped for brand new used clothes to wear to Boone and Katie’s wedding. I can’t be getting out on the dance floor this weekend in my dirty running shorts, feathered trucker hat, and filthy ill-fitting Hawaiian shirt. Cheese then drove us up to Boulder to a gear repair  shop where I got the zipper on my tent replaced. Boulder Mountain Repair is the real deal; short money and super quick, in and out in 20 minutes. Before dropping us off at the airport we stopped for Vietnamese food. One of my 2017 New Year’s resolutions was to master chopsticks and I hadn’t picked up a pair in 6 weeks. It’s like riding a bike though and I had no problem devouring a huge bowl of Pho Tai. Right now I’m sitting on the plane that was delayed an additional hour and a half waiting to take off. Should be getting to O’Hare around 11:30 central time then still have about a 90 mile drive to Rockford, IL ahead of us. Hoping to crash out for a little bit on the plane. Oddly enough last night at Cheese’s cookout I met 2 of his roommates, one grew up in Rockford and the other went to Appalachian State in Boone, NC. My buddy Boone’s hometown and another city where he spent a lot of time and where his trail name is derived from. The truth is stranger than fiction, I’ve been saying that for years. The thing is though, that kind of stuff barely surprises me anymore, my life is a series of eerie coincidences or at least I think it is (I’ve also been saying that for years).Colorado state capitalit wouldn’t have been cool to put it back on the rack after trying it on over these gross clothes

Day 48     6/16     0 miles

We got into Chicago after midnight and still had to rent a car and drive 90 miles to Rockford. I hadn’t driven a car in 6 weeks, I was exhausted, in a place I’d never been, in a car I wasn’t familiar with, and driving through cloudburst rainstorms and navigating other obstacles like orange construction barrels and having to throw coins in real tollbooths like the olden days. I felt like I woke up in this really weird dream and had to perform ridiculous tasks. No problem though, we got to Boone’s house and caught up with him for awhile before finally crashing out for the night around 3am. After sleeping in for a few extra hours; Boone, QB, and I went to breakfast at Eggceltional or Eggsclusive Cafe or some other egg pun restaurant. I can’t remember the exact name but both thumbs up. Come to find out they call it a Denver omelette in Illinois too, but they should call it a Rockford omelette. QB and I both devoured our 5 egg omelette, plus stacks of pancakes. These were gigantic meals and we major beatings on them, I could tell the waitress was impressed. Queen B and I spent the afternoon having fun exploring the city of Rockford. It’s got a reputation for being a rather gritty place but from what I saw of the city I think Rockford’s got a lot going for it. We went to an art museum at the Discovery Center, walked along the riverfront and downtown and checked out the Rockford Farmer’s Market. This evening we went to the wedding rehearsal at the Barn and then to dinner with the Bride, Groom, and family and friends at Costa’s in Byron, IL. The wedding venue was really nice, dinner was great and it was a lot of fun meeting the people in Katie and Boone’s life. Boone and QB crushing breakfastthe Discovery Center in Rockford, ILthe Riverwalk Rockford, ILthe wedding venue

Day 49     6/17     0 miles

This morning Queen B and I took a little field trip to the Wisconsin state capitol, Madison. What a delightful little city this is! Madison is a clean, safe college town that was chock full of tourists, sidewalk performances, and another farmer’s market(2 midwestern FM’s in a row if you’re keeping track). In the center of the city is the beautiful capitol building. We checked that out and went up to the observation deck, enjoying 360 degree views of Madison and the 2 lakes the city is built between. We walked along pedestrian only State street which is closed to traffic on the weekends, over to both lakes, down to the University of Wisconsin and then out to lunch for noodles and sushi. Katie told us that Madison is the foodie capital of the Midwest(Boone disagreed). Either way the Japanese food today did not disappoint. Madison is about an hour and a half from Rockford so we headed back early enough that we’d have enough time to get all gussied up for the wedding. We got to the venue with time to spare and the impending rain held off for a beautiful outdoor ceremony. I’ve had many different roles at weddings and this time I was asked to step in and be the videographer. I was up for the task and everything but there’s a small chance there may have been some technical difficulties with the production. The reception in the barn afterwards was perfect; I met lots of their family and friends, there were 2 rather awesome toasts by Brian and Amanda(the BM and MOH speeches are usually my favorite part of any wedding and they both rose to the challenge), live country music, and serve yourself style BBQ which I prefer because of my fierce appetite. Most importantly it was easy to see that everyone in the room was genuinely happy for Boone or ‘Eric’ and Katie. These two have themselves a legit love story and it was obvious how excited they both were to be marrying each other. Tonight was a great night and I’m so glad I was there for it. Congratulations Katie and Boone! Madison, WIa street performer me, Boone(with his eyes closed), Katie, QBBoone or ‘Eric’ and Katie, the newlyweds QB and Lydia the flower girl, cheesin real hardMe and QB, got our wedding gear at thrift stores and took a few bird baths to get rid of that hiker stank

Day 50     6/18    0 miles

Boone put us up at his house for 2 nights and let us use it as a base while we were in town but since the newlyweds were returning there after the wedding, we sprang for a hotel room last night. I’m sure he carried her over the threshold and everything but we got out of their hair for all those traditions. I’d have to go over my journal to make sure, but I think Boone’s house was the first place that I spent 2 nights in a row since I left Massachusetts in the end of April. The place was incredible. Boone built it himself and as a carpenter and a perfectionist; his house is a perfect example of the craft that he’s mastered. We stopped by this morning before leaving town to say goodbye and gather a few of our things before driving to the airport. Everything went really smoothly so far today and QB and I are currently up in the air flying back to Denver. No delays on Spirit Airlines end so as long as the pilot lands this thing where they’re supposed to, we should be back on trail in the next 24 hours. I knew getting to Rockford for this wedding was going to be a challenge but it would be well worth it and it was. It’s tough to get off trail for an extended period of time but we hadn’t taken any zeroes yet and hopefully my body will appreciate the rest I’ve given it. Check in next week for an update and feel free to follow me on insta @endlesspsummer for more pictures.

-Endless

PS All My Love!!! a Northern Illinois sunset last night at the wedding

Day 20     5/19     16 miles

We were joined in Grants by our friend Speed who traveled down from Denver and is joining us for a stretch. Speed’s an experienced hiker who’s got lots of long distance miles on his legs. He’s a retired scientist with the BLM(bureau of land management) and has lots of knowledge about the outdoors. Like if I was ever on ‘Who Wants to be a Millionaire’ Speed would be my lifeline for all things to do with the outside. Queen B and I both met and hiked with him on the PCT in ’15. The 3 of us walked out of town around noon time today but not before grabbing a burrito at a taco shop at the edge of the city. The trail follows the highway for a few miles and then goes into the woods and climbs in elevation towards Mt. Taylor. It’s been a nice peaceful and relaxing day but as we get higher the temperature has been dropping. We’re right around 9000 feet and it should be cold sleeping tonight.  On a positive note about sleeping though, my tent is set up correctly for the first time ever. I have about 6000 miles on this thing and never learned how to set it up the right way, granted I don’t always use it and try to cowboy camp when I can, when I do need it I just half ass the set up and get the job done as quick as possible. Queen B has been criticizing how janky the thing looks so she watched a video on the correct way to set it up and then put her knowledge to use. The thing looks good and is more spacious than ever. Now if I can only get her to do this for me every night. A little after 9 our friend Smiley, who I met on the PCT and QB met on the AT in ’13, showed up to camp. Smiley’s triple crowned and then some. He drove over from Navajo Nation and up a forest road to our campsite. He brought us all kinds of great trail magic; a bucket of chicken, coconut cream pie, pecan pie, fresh fruit, and lots of Coca Cola Classics. We’re camped near the trailhead to Mt Taylor so he was able to park and will be joining us for the day tomorrow. QB and Speed

Day 21     5/20     21 miles 

What a great day! Smiley, Speed, Queen B and I started the day by climbing Mt Taylor, one of the 4 sacred peaks of the Navajo. We then followed along a ridge to summit La Mosca Peak. Both peaks were over 11,000 feet and it was the first time of the hike we had to walk across any snow. Smiley turned back after La Mosca but he was awesome, he gave us some good info about the CDT and brought with him lots of food for today’s hike and provided us with trail magic all morning. Speed, Queen B and I then spent the rest of the day enjoying some sunshine and descending down a few thousand feet. We found a place to cowboy camp in a patch of trees just off trail on the edge of a wide open range. 

Day 22     5/21     26 miles 

It was a little chilly last night but that gave me good reason to hit the ground running or at least walking quickly early this morning. The miles during the early morning hours are usually some of my favorite of the day, and this morning was no exception. The air was crisp, probably in the high 30’s, and I had wide open views of the sunrise all around me and could hear coyotes howling in the distance. Queen B was lucky enough to see a coyote this morning, but I didn’t get the chance. She said the two wild animals (herself and the coyote) stared at each other for a good 15 seconds and had a moment. We walked for about 13 or 14 miles and had to take a little side trail into a really cool canyon to get water so that’s where we stopped for lunch. By the spring we met Rabinath, a hiker from Amsterdam, and he walked with us the rest of the day. After about 10 more miles of walking through the forest the trail drops steeply down from the mesa into a wide open valley. It’s funny because I didn’t even know we were up on a mesa until the trail reached a point at the edge of the forest and peaking through the trees I could see vast expansive views of this beautiful valley. Once I got down into the valley the trail crossed a forest road and a couple guys, John and Alan, were just packing up from camping for the weekend. They said 5 hikers camped with them the previous night and they cooked for them. Trail magic is the best! Since they were just leaving they hooked me up with a bunch of leftovers; boiled eggs, ham, boiled potatoes, and string cheese that I shared with Queen B, Speed, and Rabinath. We cowboy camped in a patch of trees down around 6000 feet so I expect it to be a much warmer night. Early morning hiking across an open rangethe view from the edge of the forest and the mesa
Day 23     5/22     29 miles

If I used the word epic I would use it to describe today. It really was incredible. I got going bright and early around quarter of 6 and walked across a huge valley into these big rock formations. This is Canyon and mesa country. I felt like I was in a Wile E. Coyote cartoon. We walked through slickrock canyons, around  buttes, on the edges of mesas and up and down rock formations all day. It truly was spectacular. Plus, we didn’t see anybody. Besides Queen B and Speed I didn’t see another hiker all day. I mean I know it’s a weekday and everything but this place is awesome, I can’t believe nobody else is out here enjoying it. Then to cap off the day we finished the book we’ve been reading as a group,  Huck Finn. One of my favorite thru hiking activities is to read books as a team with my hiking partners. I like to read the classics because they’re usually free on my phone and also they’re classics for a reason. I’m frugal and I’m ultralight. Queen B and I started Huck Finn at the beginning of the trail and Speed joined in for the last hundred pages or so. Both thumbs all the way up by the way. Next on the docket is John Steinbeck’s Grapes of Wrath. Let me know if you have any suggestions. We found a place to cowboy camp just beyond a canyon with a spring and only 15 miles from Cuba our next town. 

Day 24     5/23     15 miles 

Cruised right on into Cuba, NM this morning. Had one little miscommunication with my hiking partners earlier. I was the first out of camp this morning, as usual, and after about 10 miles I went off trail to get water at a windmill and I thought these two were planning to stop there. Turns out they had enough water and were going straight into town. So I stayed off trail by the windmill chilling out and stuff and they bee lined right past on the regular trail. I thought they were behind they thought I was ahead. After an hour or so of them not showing I turned and burned and picked up their tracks going into Cuba. No big deal, these things happen. We met up in town and crushed some cheeseburgers before going about our day doing town chores and stuff. Speed’s got a buddy that’s picking us up and putting us up for the night at his house nearby. Things are good! Loving the trail so far and excited for the trail ahead. Follow my insta if you want @endlesspsummer for more pictures. 

-Endless

PS All My Love!!! 

Pie Town, NM

Day 8     5/7     22 miles

Sunday morning I treated myself by sleeping in until 7 in the loft of the A Space gallery in Silver City. Before leaving town I stuffed my face at Vicki’s Eatery for breakfast then relaxed for a little bit at Javalina’s (it’s a coffee shop, get it?). Queen B and I walked out of town around 10 through a residential neighborhood before getting back up into the Gila wilderness. After a few miles we took a left and started on the Gila River alternate route that will link back up with the CDT further North along the trail. We met up with Trooper, a hiker from Pittsburgh, at a little creek in the late afternoon and walked with him for about the next 5 miles or so. The three of us camped on some flat rocks near Hell’s Canyon spring. Ironic that it is called Hell’s Canyon because due west of us we watched the sun drop into some clouds along the horizon depicting what looked to me like the stereotypical version of heaven. The version of heaven depicted on prayer cards given out at funerals. If such a place exists, this just might be it.

Day 9     5/8     25 miles

Early the next morning Queen B and I walked about a dozen miles before the Trail reached the Gila River at the bottom of a canyon. The alternate follows the river as it serpentines through a beautiful red rock canyon for miles. In all we will end up crossing the river something like 200 times. Queen B said she would keep track but lost count after 4, I didn’t even try. It’s slow going with all the river crossings but it’s been incredible. We walked for the rest of the day crossing the river countless times and dropping our packs to jump in for a swim whenever we felt like it. In the evening we found a nice soft sandy beach to camp on that even came with hot springs! There was a small waterfall into a hot pool with a muddy bottom surrounded by vegetation. 

Day 10     5/9     15 miles

Tuesday I had no reason to jump out of bed too early because I was picking up a resupply box at Doc Campbell’s outpost and it didn’t open until 10. We did a few miles of river crossings in the morning before the trail reaches a bridge. That road skirts along the canyon for awhile and eventually to Doc’s store. A nice little pit stop. I ate some food, did a little maintenance and picked up a box of junk food I mailed myself a couple weeks earlier. We carried on with every intention of checking out the Gila Cliff Dwellings but the sky threatened T-storms and since it was 5 miles of road walking out of the way, and not guaranteed to be letting people in because of the potential for weather, we decided to skip it. The trail then drops back into a canyon containing the middle fork of the Gila. We found a hot spring right away with super hot water and laid in it for awhile looking up at the huge canyon walls. This day was awesome! The red, yellow and orange canyon walls were quite the sight. We continued to cross the river over and over while craning our necks to look at the walls and spires that were everywhere. The day ended with another stellar campsite just up a short path from yet another hot spring. This one a little cooler but cleaner and clearer and perfect for a good soak after a long day of walking. I swear hot springs are good for the soul. The Gila is an amazing place, borderline magical. It should be considered a national treasure. And there’s nobody here! 2 nights in a row we got a campsite with our own private hot spring, it’s unbelievable.

Day 11     5/10     24 miles

Wednesday I spent another full day walking along the Gila and we’re camped just at the edge of the wilderness boundary. This place is on my short list for favorite places ever visited, and we’ve had it practically all to ourselves. Today was the coldest it’s been so far, so less swimming in the river but we still had to cross it like a million times. And I’ve had wet feet constantly for the last 3 days so my toenails will probably grow extra long this week. Queen B got stuck pretty good in quicksand today, less than an hour after we were talking about how every kid grows up with a built in fear of quicksand. What are the chances? She lived though, but apparently she was in it pretty deep, up to her thighs and had to rescue herself a la Indiana Jones(not sure if this even happened in the movies, I never saw them). With all the river crossings it’s tough to move quickly through this section but that’s fine with me. The Gila River has been thoroughly enjoyable and I can’t believe how well kept a secret it is, I actually feel a little guilty broadcasting this. 

Day 12     5/11     30 miles

It was freezing this morning when I woke up. I know this because my shoes, socks and gaiters were frozen stiff. I had no choice but to put them on anyway and start walking. Eventually they thawed out once I started walking. The trail crossed the icy river about half dozen more times as we climbed up to Snow Lake. Right as we got up to the lake we saw a herd of about 30 elk also out for a walk this morning. There’s a national forest campground at the lake and I learned from a camper there that the temperature got down to the 20’s last night. Luckily, it warmed up considerable as the day went on. The trail climbs up through another  canyon and then travels over vast rolling plains(think Dances With Wolves) for about 5 miles before joining a forest road for awhile. On the forest road I met Johnny from Germany, the first thru hiker I’ve seen in days besides QB. I walked with him for a couple hours and he planted some ideas in my head like riding a bike all around the Mediterranean and hiking the Dream Path from Munich to Venice. Today was a good day, nothing spectacular, but it was enjoyable and a good day to crush big miles as we ended up going over 30 for just the second time of the hike. Best hot spring ever!!!

Day 13     5/12     30 miles

Last night I dreamt of scrambled eggs smothered in cheese. What a weird thing to dream about, that’s not even part of my regular diet. My appetite had started to increase the last couple days but I guess that makes it official; if I’m dreaming about food then my hiker hunger has most definitely kicked in. It was another cold one last night, not frozen socks in the morning cold, but still cold. Probably because we were camped pretty high, up above 8500 feet. The trail climbed up over 9000 feet this morning and for the first time I saw snow on the ground. We rejoined the official CDT from the Gila River alternate just a mile into the day and of course I went the wrong way for half a mile before noticing and had to bush whack up a steep hill to get back on track. The rest of the day went smoothly, lots of single track through pine forest climbing and dropping over and over while eventually dropping down to just below 8000 feet where we are camped near a cow pond 35 miles south of Pie Town. Walking up out of the canyon

Day 14     5/13     26 miles

Another cold morning but a really nice relaxing day. Today was mostly a dirt road walk through pine forest but included some nice climbs. We topped out around 9600 feet on Mangas mountain that even had a working, staffed fire lookout tower. I checked that out of course and spotted a wildfire in the distance. Not about to pose a threat to my hike though. The forest service worker Mike, has a pretty cool job, probably on par with being a lighthouse keeper. 

Day 15     5/14     9 miles

Pie Town! My first shower in 11 days, my record’s 12 but I’ve gotta strike while the irons hot, or when my pits are smelly, or when there’s a shower available. Like today. Pie Town is this tiny little town in New Mexico with a couple of restaurants that serve pie of course and home of the Toaster House, a really cool little hostel for us hikers with toasters all over the place. It’s been 5 days and 130 miles since I’ve had any kind of civilization and now I’m about to enjoy the fruits of my labor and relax for the rest of the day. Feel free to follow me on insta for more pictures of this adventure @endlesspsummerthe Toaster House

-Endless

PS All My Love!!!

Silver City, NM      

On Thursday I got up early to get a good start for the walk out of Lordsburg. A continental breakfast slowed me down a little, but I was okay with that. The Econolodge in Lordsburg is kind of like the unofficial headquarters for starting the CDT. Volunteers who are running the shuttle service stay for about a month and hikers beginning the trail usually stay there the night before as well as hikers who have walked into town from the border. Also some hikers are laid up there due to an early injury waiting to heal before getting back on trail. So the breakfast room was pretty busy at 5:30 in the morning with hikers eager to start which made for a fun way to begin the day. Queen B and I knew we had about 15 miles of flat, hot, dry desert before the trail started to climb into the cooler mountains of the Gila Wilderness. We also planned on crushing big miles that day (which we did) so wanted to get a jump on the day.

We ripped across the flat waterless section walking fast and rationing our water because it was a total of 18 miles to the first water source (a windmill that pumped nice cool clean water from the ground). Carrying water can be a tough balance. It’s something I’m always aware of especially in dry sections. How many miles until the next water, and how much do I have left are questions I need to know the answer to at all times. I never want to carry too much because it’s heavy but also don’t want to carry too little because I’ll dry up. I eat salty foods to help stay hydrated and look out for signs of dehydration. A liter is roughly 2 lbs and I try not to carry more than 3 at any given time. That’s pretty much my max. If I’ve got a 20 mile waterless section I’ll camel up at a water source and then take about 3 liters with me. Ideally I’d like to carry a liter or less and that’s definitely manageable in wetter areas. On the AT for example I rarely carried more than a liter and usually about half of one. I apologize for all this boring water talk but it’s a subject that’s often discussed. The rest of the day went smoothly and at 31 miles was our biggest day so far. We camped at the trailhead for Burro Peak where we met Colleen and Robert who were just beginning a motorcycle trip back and forth across the US, sounded pretty rad. Non-hikers take note.

Friday was pretty non eventful except that it was a really beautiful day as the trail rolled through Gila Wilderness. We finally encountered our first natural water sources but we never came across another human being all day, it was desolate out there. If the day was uneventful, Friday night was a different story. We dropped down into Saddle Rock canyon around 6:30 and this place was sweet! There was a water source here and the canyon walls provided coverage from potential wind while the floor was sandy soft and flat. A primo campsite, besides the fact that it was in an arroyo or a wash. The skies were clear however and we took our chances that a flash flood wasn’t coming through. Plus I had an escape route planned just in case.

Around 1 am I woke up to some rustling and looked up to see a gigantic black bear about 20 feet away, first I thought it was a cow but then realized this was a huge bear. Biggest I’ve ever seen. If I was alone I probably would have tried to yell it off right away but I didn’t want to wake QB (you gotta get your sleep out here). I watched it for about 20 minutes and it didn’t pay any mind to us but still made me uneasy. Then it moved to a ledge just behind us but out of view. I layed still for awhile and after a few minutes of not hearing anything I got up out of my sleeping bag and on my knees facing the bear who at the same time propped himself up and was staring right back at me. I think this is when he first noticed me. We stared at each other for what felt like 4-5 minutes in a New Mexican standoff but was probably more like 30 seconds. Finally I blinked, I clapped my hiking sticks together a couple times and the bear took off up the canyon while also waking up QB. I should have just done that in the first place. My adrenaline was pumping and I definitely had trouble sleeping the rest of the night. Queen B unsuccessfully attempted to lull me to sleep by reading Huck Finn but in the end she just put herself to sleep. I spent the next 4 hours trying to sleep but also looking up at the stars and enjoying tons of shooters. That was a real night; sleeping on a canyon floor, getting visited in the middle of the night by a huge bear, and being entertained for hours by shooting stars. I’ll take that over tossing and turning in my bed at home anytime.

I couldn’t sleep so around 5:30 just got walking. It was cool for awhile, hiking through Saddle rock canyon during sunrise but after about 5 miles the trail reaches the road and you have to follow that into town. It’s a 13 mile long roadwalk to Silver City, the highway kind. It was tedious and I was tired, but since we didn’t dilly dally we ended up getting into town around 1pm and were able to enjoy the rest of the day in town.

Silver City is sweet! This place is a blend of artists, musicians, hippies, eccentrics and outdoor people. We met this guy Jean-Robert who let us crash in his incredible art gallery. This place was awesome, I can’t do it justice by describing it so check it out on insta @a.spacegallery. Easily one of the coolest indoor places I’ve ever spent the night. Oh and I got a new shirt at a thrift store here in town. Lots of turquoise for the Land of Enchantment. My other one was literally falling apart at the seams, I even had to patch a big hole before leaving Lordsburg with a piece of a pillow case I found in a hiker box and some superglue.

This morning I spoiled myself by sleeping in until 7 which was nice and I’m super excited about the section coming up. I’ll be hiking along the Gila river, supposed to be awesome! So stay tuned, and follow me on insta for pics of this adventure @endlesspsummer 

-Endless

PS All my love!!! The desert leaving Lordsburg In Saddle Rock Canyon Queen B enjoying the sunrise walking out of the canyon Roadwalk to Silver City, the highway kind A Space Gallery Silver City, NM

Lordsburg, NM

Hashtag Bootheel! Currently sitting in some nice cool air conditioning inside an Econolodge in the small southern New Mexican City of Lordsburg. I spent the last 4 days walking here from the Mexican border across the state’s bootheel. The sun during the day down here is hot and shade is hard to come by but it’s nothing unreasonable. At night and early mornings are cool and crisp with the morning hours providing some of my favorite miles to walk. The sunsets and sunrises have been impressive and I don’t think I’ve ever seen the Milky Way with such clarity before. The stars at night are big and bright, in New Mexico. The best is when I wake up in the middle of the night and look up, it’s indescribable really, just lots and lots and lots of stars. Let me bring you back a few days and explain how I got started on this hike.

I’ve been traveling and hiking with my friend Queen B and on Saturday the two of us took a shuttle from El Paso, TX to Silver City, NM. Silver City was hosting a festival for the hikers put on by the CDTC(Continental Divide Trail Coalition) and we caught the Saturday evening portion of it. It was cool, I ran into some old friends and got to watch a presentation from Pepper about his winter thru hike of the PCT. We were hoping to start our hike the next day and Wizard from the CDTC was very helpful getting us rides down to the Mexican border. First, Peru gave us a ride to Lordsburg where we stayed Saturday night (this is the same place I’m at now, sorry for the confusion) and the next morning Radar drove us down to the Crazy Cook monument where the trail begins. It was an eventful ride. It took about 3 hours for Radar to drive a total of 5 hikers in a big 2500 pickup to the border. About half of the ride is bumpy back roads off the highway that aren’t really maintained. I drank a ton of coffee that morning and had to pee so bad.

There’s really not much down here, besides the tiny town of Hachita that we stopped at while driving down and maybe a  cattle ranch here or there in the distance. That doesn’t mean the desert isn’t alive. It’s greener than I thought it would be and I’ve seen a fair amount of wildlife including: a couple javelinas, a few herds of pronghorn, jack rabbits, cottontail rabbits, red tailed hawks, turkey vultures, small lizards, horned toads and a big gopher snake or something that I apparently missed stepping on less than an inch. I’m not sure what kind of snake this was and I wouldn’t even had known it was there if Queen B didn’t stop in her tracks and say, “Endless! What are you doing? You almost stepped on that snake’s head!”  I wish she didn’t say anything because now I’ve been worried that snake is following me and will try to slither into my sleeping bag at night to cuddle. I’ve been a little more cautious since then.

This section has been tough but a really good start to the hike. Tough in that it’s hot and not much water and navigation can be difficult but the elevation profile has been mild and the miles have been fun. At times it can be a little uncomfortable but it hasn’t yet been unenjoyable. I’m really glad to be thru hiking again and it’s been fun to be back among the other hikers. There has been probably about a dozen other people in this stretch and I think all have thru hiked the PCT or the AT before, but mostly both.

We did about 15 today and got into town before noon for a nice long half day break with a shower, hot food, and clean clothes. Planning on getting up and on trail at the b-crack of dawn tomorrow and continue walking north to Canada. Next stop: Silver City!

-Endless

PS All My Love!

PPS Check out my insta for more pictures of this last section @endlesspsummer

Day 1Crush City all the way to Canada, I hope! Queen B unsuccessfully securing a ride to Lordsburg from Silver City

I eat whatever I want and call it lunch

Shade fort

You’re never gonna make it! I sat on a piece of cactus the other day, cartoon character styleSnake!! Mexico on the left US on the right Crossing a road in the middle of nowhere Pyramid mountain

Post PCT ’16 and The Wonderland Trail

I’m currently sitting in the Portland airport waiting patiently to fly to Boston. My hiking season is coming to an end and as much fun as I’ve had, I’m looking forward to seeing my people and adapting back into my non hiking life. And showering regularly.

I’ve had a very enjoyable summer. A rich, full, fun life experience. Let me catch you up on what I’ve been up to since I lasted updated this. On 8/26 I got in to Seattle, spent a couple of days there and on the 28th was heading north from Steven’s Pass on the PCT(Pacific Crest Trail).

In case you didn’t recently read last summer’s edition of this blog, I’ll refresh your memory. In 2015 I started hiking the PCT from the Mexican border and walked 2461 miles before the remaining miles of the trail were closed due to wildfires. It was a tough pill to swallow, I felt like I had crushed it for months, my body was feeling good and mentally I was determined to walk to Canada. There was never a point where I felt like I wouldn’t finish.

All of a sudden the trail was closed down and weeks would pass before it reopened, so the unfinished 188 miles hung over my head for a year. It was hard to constantly explain it, like there was this asterisk on my 2015 PCT thru hike. So back to recent history. S+M, Tim Tam Slam, Schemes and myself got back on the trail on August 28th and got right back into our old habits: walking. These women are fun, fast, tough, and formidable hikers. Most importantly they laugh at all my jokes, or a lot of them anyway and at the same time keep me entertained. Plus, Washington state is dope. We had a great trip.

After 4 or 5 days of walking through old growth forests, over long ridges and through these big old mountains we got into Stehekin, WA. This little resort town sits on the end of Lake Chelan and can’t be reached by cars. Stehekin is only accessible by float planes, boats and hikers. All supplies are ferried there by barge twice a week or something like that. Oh yeah they have this bakery there that is legendary. Some bozo tried to tip us off about it like we hadn’t been hearing about since Mexico last year. Thanks for the pro tip bro!

Sadly S+M had to get off trail in Stehekin due to a knee injury. She’s leaving in a few months to join the peace corps in Guinea and naturally wanted to prevent further damage. The rest of us continued north through a spectacular section of trail that included North Cascades NP. The weather was cold and wet but our spirits were high and after a few days we finally crossed into Canada completing our hike. It felt real. Rejoining my friends out there made it what it was. I could have finished this section in July or even waited around last September to finish but wouldn’t have been the same if I had walked it solo or with a different crew. Thanks girls(if you’re still reading).

From where the trail ends in Manning Park; Tami, Schemes, myself and two new friends Jobin and Cougar, took a bus to Vancouver where Tami proceeded onto Portland and Schemes and I spent the day exploring this foreign city. Schemes and I then took a bus to Seattle from where she flew back to Southern California via Colorado for awhile before she goes to Antarctica to study rocks for a few months.

I stayed for a few days in the Eastlake neighborhood with my friends Dave and Nikki from home. They’ve been living, working in and exploring different cities this year but the word is they’re about to road trip back to Mass and get married and all that good stuff. While I was there we went out to the mountains, swam in alpine lakes, explored the city, and ate noodles, it was great.

From Seattle I decided to get myself down to Mt. Rainier NP to hike the Wonderland trail. It took me a day of city buses, walking and hitchhiking to get there but I got there. I then proceeded to crush this trail. It’s 90 miles around the perimeter of the massive Mt Rainier and because of a glitch in the permit system for some reason I had to do a 36 mile day to get to my first campsite. Nbd. #crushcity. It was fun, nonstop nfa hiking from sun to sun for 3 days and arguably the most beautiful stretch of weather I had all summer. Plus the scenery was just the tops! Climbing Rainier is most definitely on my to do list.

From Rainier I hitched south towards Oregon. I caught a series of rides and made it to Cascade Locks where I caught up with my friend Roadrunner who had just recently returned from Burning Man. We had planned on hiking the Timberline trail but the weather up on Mt Hood turned to shit, so we headed towards the coast instead. First we spent a night at her folks house in Salem and her mom gave me a tour of Oregon’s capital. Along with Roadrunner’s dog Shasta aka Santa’s Little Helper we carried on to Pacific City and up to Rockaway beach where we stealth camped for the night.

The next day we drove up the coast stopping at the Tillamook cheese factory, Cannon Beach the home of Haystack Rock of Goonies fame, up to Fort Stevens Park, to the city of Astoria, over to some waterfalls and through an elk reserve. It was a fun action packed beautiful day. A great way to spend my last full day on the west coast. Before returning to her life of living on the Columbia River Gorge and crushing mountains Roadrunner dropped me off in Portland where I met up with Tami for noodles and she put me up for the night. After getting to Canada Tami had returned to her off trail life in Portland but I have a feeling she’ll be hiking the long miles again sooner rather than later.

I’m flying to Boston and about to return to my life in Lynn for awhile. I’m happy about it, excited to see family and especially looking forward to meeting my brand new nephew Will. I’ve got some good stuff coming up too; hoping to get back into climbing and also running again since I signed up for the Stonecat 50 miler in November and I anticipate this winter to be chock full of skiing and snowshoeing. It’s a lot of fun to live in the woods, spend every night in a different place and travel wherever I want to go but the time has come to go home. And as much as I love the Pacific Northwest and the mountains, Lynn is home and I have a nice little life there. Real talk though, can’t wait to do it again!!

“To Live is to Fly” -TVZ

-Endless

Instagram @endlesspsummer

Thank you to everybody that helped me do my thing. Rides. Meals. A place to stay. Taking time out of your life for me. People were so gracious. If any of you come through Massachusetts make sure to get in touch. I’d love to return the favor as long as I’m not on a trail somewhere. You know when people say stuff like that you have to be careful because there’s people like me that will always take you up on it. S+M, Schemes, Endless, TimTamSlamMt JeffersonRoadrunner and Shasta

Post AT, Pre Colorado Trail

I decided to update my blog just in case you’ve been sitting around wondering what I’ve been up to since my last post. I flew into Seattle July 11th and stayed only for a few days before I unexpectedly had to fly back and forth to Mass. For a couple days I explored the Emerald City(that’s what they call it) and got a chance to meet up with some friends from home, Dave and Nikki before their trip to Alaska.

I also caught up with my buddy Malibu and we went for a massive bike ride around Lake Washington. Last year this dude rode his bike from Seattle to San Diego, hiked the PCT, then rode a bike home to Seattle from Manning Park. He had an extra bike just for this kind of situation and I did my best keeping up with him. I don’t have too much road biking experience but my only real problem was I kept getting my right foot caught in the baskets. I fell 3 times, not bad falls though, but only when I was stopped at an intersection and lots of people could point and laugh. I’ve laughed at plenty of people falling though, so I deserved it.

When I returned to the Pacific Northwest, July 17th, I headed out towards Snoqualmie Pass and the PCT. I caught a bus and then a couple of quick hitches and was on trail around 6pm. From Snoqualmie Pass I headed north on a  familiar section of the PCT to do a 2 night out and back. About two miles into this incredible little slice of heaven I ran into Ram and Red Feather out for a day hike. I met them both last summer before they had met each other and they informed me that they just got married. Long trail, the PCT, but small world.

After a couple nights my friend Sweetums joined me and we hiked up the Denny Creek trail to the magical Malakwa Lake. Sweetums learned me on all kinds of stuff hiking. A total badass, and if I wasn’t my own idol she’d be a front runner for that title. Check out her blog here: chasingmydaydream.com. She was off to solo the Enchantments in a day and I was headed to Yakima,WA to see my friend Jenn. Sweetums drove me part of the way and then I caught a couple hitches including a beautiful ride through Yakima River Canyon. Jenn came through with a ride the rest of the way, put me up at her place, and drove me to the bus station the next day. We went out in Yak Vegas(I heard that’s what the locals call it) had a fun night with Jenn(a friend of mine from years ago who spent some time in Lynn) and Katie, who I met last year while I was out that way, and some of their crew. Only by a few days did I miss out on their fly fishing trip to Idaho. Timing is everything.

From Yakima I planned on joining my buddy Boone in Oregon and get on the PCT for awhile. I took a bus to Seattle, then ran across the city to catch another one to Portland. Boone and his girlfriend Katie did me a solid. They drove from Bend to Portland and back to pick me up. 3+ hours each way. The two of them had been hiking north from Crater Lake, Katie was about to head home and Boone was continuing on to Canada. It was great to see these two and we drank milkshakes and ate pancakes and all that good thru hiker food.

The following morning Katie dropped us off at Santiam Pass and Boone and I crushed a bunch of trail. So nice to be back on the PCT in Oregon, soft smooth trail and gentle elevation gain and loss, not to mention the spectacular views throughout the hike. Going from Maine on the AT to Oregon on the PCT is like swinging a weighted bat and then a wiffle ball bat. After about a hundred miles we got up to Timberline Lodge on Mt Hood. This is the hotel from ‘The Shining'(the outside scenes anyway). We surprised our buddy Speed when we joined him stealth camping in the woods nearby and then I could barely sleep because I was so excited about the brunch buffet at the lodge. This is the greatest breakfast ever. I mean that’s in my opinion, but I’d like to know where to find a better one. If I was ever to be executed(hopefully that doesn’t happen) I’m going with the Timberline Brunch for my last meal and if they don’t have that I’m going with pad thai pizza.

Two more days of hiking and I got to Cascade Locks, OR. I ate some lunch and took a shower that I also used to wash my clothes real quick. So now I’m trying to get to Portland and I’m standing on the road with my thumb out for like ten minutes without anybody even slowing down or look twice. Miraculously my friend Roadrunner, who lives in town unbeknownst to me, spots me from the opposite direction and yells to me a la Billy Ocean, “Get outta my dreams, Get into my car!” At least that’s what I heard. What she probably really said was,”Hey Endless, you hobo!! Get in the car I’ll give you a ride.” It was awesome. Great to see her and catch up then she drove me all the way to Portland. The options for flying from Portland to Denver were weak so I audibled. I took a bus to Seattle then a red eye from there to Denver with a quick layover in Minneapolis.

In Denver I met up with PCT friends BK, Prickly Pear and Queen B for lunch. The 4 of us plus Nomad are starting the Colorado Trail tomorrow. Then I crashed the honeymoon of the freshly married Fannons. It was great, went out on the 16th Sreet Mall and staying with them in this sweet Air BnB tonight. Things are good, I’ll be hiking the next few weeks with a fun and formidable crew and I’m excited about Colorado. Don’t hesitate to subscribe to this blog if you want to hear what happens next and as always feel free to follow me on Instagram @endlesspsummer

-Endless



This post has been months in the making but figured I should update my legions of fans on my adventure home and what I’ve been up to since getting off the PCT.

I left Seattle on August 26th and began to slowly make my way back home. My friend Jenn picked me up in the city and we drove to Yakima where she lives. On the way we stopped in Leavenworth, WA a Bavarian style little tourist trap of a town. Then, because I was in charge of navigation, we went the wrong way and ended up in Wenatchee. No big deal.

Yakima was enjoyable, I stayed there for a night and my short term plan was to get to Cascade Locks for PCT Days, a little festival/reunion with a bunch of hikers. I decided to hitch and after not having much luck with a ride out of Yakima I walked to the next town Union Gap. It took all day but I ended up getting 3 rides and doing a little road walking but got to Cascade Locks on the 27th.

I’m really glad I went to this little festival. I didn’t know anything about it until just a couple days before so I hadn’t planned on going at all. Lots of hikers were getting into Cascade Locks during the course of the weekend and others who were either behind or ahead found ways to get there. It was awesome to see so many people that I had met earlier in the trail that I hadn’t seen in hundreds or in some cases thousands of miles.

I spent a few days here and hemmed and hawed about trying to wait out the fires and possibly getting back on trail on the section I had to skip. In the end I decided I’m moving on. The 2015 edition of the PCT was over for me, I did what I could do when I could do it and the Northern Cascades will be there. Someday I’ll go back and walk through them. The incomplete section will gnaw at me for sure until I get back out to the NorthWest.

Without much of a plan except to eventually make my way back home, I started hitching East. Hitchhiking across the country might sound ludicrous or dangerous or just stupid to most people but I think it’s a pretty unique way to travel. I wish it was more socially acceptable. While I was on trail, hitching in and out of town is completely normal and is considered common practice among the hikers. So I had been pretty accustomed to it.

I got a ride right out of Cascade Locks and then just kept going for awhile. In 4 days I got 19 rides and made it from Cascade Locks, OR to Kansas City, MO for a total of 1750 miles. Besides just a few long waits I usually got picked up in about 10 minutes or less. And yeah I met a few crazies, that’s for sure, but I never felt like I was in any danger. Most of the time people just liked to tell me a bunch of stories, which was fine by me. I met some great people too.

Some of my better hitches included: Mike the hunter in Oregon who taught me all about elk and how to kill them. Misty the trucker who told me all about her life growing up in the bush in Alaska. She drove me from outside Boise all the way to Salt Lake. Pat the asst. principal, gave me a guided tour through beautiful Glenwood Canyon in Western Colorado. Jere, the player piano rebuilder, drove me literally from the mountains to the prairie and even brought me about 25 miles further along than he was going. Paula, a mother of 5 coming off a fresh stint working and living in Glacier NP, rerouted her trip on my request and drove me about 150 miles.

I didn’t get involved in any side adventures while I was traveling. As much as I had hoped, nobody picked me up and was like, “hey we’re going to explore some canyons in Utah or raft down the Colorado River and we need one more person.” I did however stop and visit a few friends. The Easter Eggs hosted me in Salt Lake City and it was a great stop. This was a couple I hiked with in the desert and hadn’t seen since early June. Mr. Egg cooked me arepas, and Mrs. Egg drove me to Provo, UT to help me along my way.

In Colby, KS I stopped for a quick visit to see my hiking partner Schemes before she headed West for school. After waiting for about 3 hours this guy Fred gave me a ride all the way across Kansas to Kansas City, Missouri. I was exhausted and I guess at this point I talked myself out of hitching the rest of the way. When I got to KC I spent the night in the airport and got a cheap flight to Boston the next morning.

I spent my first day home at the registry waiting about 4 hours for my number to be called. Going to the registry was a horrible decision. The following day my mother drove me out to Western Mass where we hiked Mt Greylock(Massachusetts high point for those of you keeping track) and then I headed North on the AT with my backpack and no definite plans. Hiking the AT was very different. For starters I was solo and I used much of the time In my head thinking about and reflecting on the incredible summer I just had out West.

Without really paying attention I crushed some big miles and got through Vermont in 6 days. On the Vermont New Hampshire border is the town of Hanover, NH where I caught up with my friend Queen B from the PCT. She got off trail out West and came back to the AT to finish what she started last year. It was really cool to see her and we got put up by a couple of trail angels in NH(Karen and Jon).

From Hanover I took a bus to Boston, then a train, car, and boat ride to Inner Heron Island off the Maine Coast. It was great, I spent the weekend relaxing with friends in a cabin on this tiny island. Then I went home. For the next couple weeks I enjoyed the end of a hot New England summer. I rode my bike, went swimming, surfing, running, golfing and hiking up in the Whites in NH. My very last weekend before returning to work I celebrated the Willis-Murray nuptials with family in Providence. It was so much fun.

Since then I’ve been super busy. Working a lot and also enjoying my time between  adventures. The post trail adjustment wasn’t the most fun but I expected that. It really wasn’t all that bad either, I’ve got a nice little life here.

Throughout the fall I did a bunch of hiking in the White Mountains and finished NH’s 48 4000 footers. I also have been swimming and running a bunch since I’ve been home. My father was training for Ipswich’s Stonecat trail marathon in November, so I decided to run the 50 miler that day. I didn’t want to be out done by a sixty something year old man with a fake hip. Ski season is upon us here in the Northeast, and I’m wicked excited about that, but it’s off to a slow start. Maybe I’ll have to make a ski trip out West, it seems that’s where all the snow is going this winter. Oh yeah I shaved my hair, beard, and mustache in stages. I’ve gone with a lot of different looks this year and I apologize if you’ve had trouble recognizing me. Sorry, I’m not sorry.

Lots of people have asked me what I’m going to do next and as much as I appreciate the enthusiasm I always think of that line from Napoleon Dynamite when the kid says, “What are you gonna do next Napoleon?” I like to answer that question with a question, “What are you gonna do next?” For real though I don’t know,if you have any suggestions I’m all ears. Until then I guess just stay tuned. Follow me on Instagram if you want @endlesspsummer.

-Endless

  Going East
 The AT/LT in Vermont

 Inner Heron Island, ME

 Getting up onto Franconia Ridge, NH

 Team Carmody Running Club

 Beautiful and scenic Lynn, Massachusetts